Wednesday, February 4, 2009

Mio el Camino de Santiago de Compostela - 3

Day 3 Lourdes -> Oloron Ste Marie


Today's the day.


I got up early this morning. It's the first day of my actual pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela. It's the Holy Week and the day I got to Lourdes was Holy Monday. I thought it's fit to think of this journey as a form of penitence. Most pilgrims would start at the small French town of Saint Jean Pied de Port or the bordering Spanish town of Roncesvalles. I, however, decided to start my own pilgrimage from another major pilgrim site in France, the town of Lourdes. That's roughly an additional 160 kms to the length of the most popular pilgrim route, Camino Frances (the French Way). With my bicycle, I intended to reach the town of Oloron Ste Marie by the end of the day.


I thought I have prepared enough to know the route but I still got lost getting out of Lourdes and spent about an hour wandering around. When I maneuvered into the right direction, the road was totally black. I only had my bicycle's small LED headlight to light the path. It was supposed to be a high-tech gear but it was no help. It's like the darkness was absorbing all of the light the LED was emitting.


The road was going up the mountains. I rode all the way up. I was excited and full of energy. I was even singing some songs. Well, some verses, actually. I didn't know the whole song so I kept on repeating the same lines over and over. I was enjoying the scenery up in the mountains and down the flowing river that I didn't realize I was already pushing myself to the limit, considering it's my first day. When I stopped for a drink for the first time, I swear I could feel my leg muscles pounding. Before I even reached the midpoint of the day's itinerary, I was already exhausted. I got sleepy. I stopped to rest a few times and every time I'd sit down, I couldn't help feeling cold and almost falling asleep. I was thinking I might have to cut my trip short and retire early for the day.


Well it's my first cycling day. To show my determination, I stuck to my original itinerary.


Right. Well, the truth, however, was that I had to stick to my schedule because I was in the middle of nowhere and I couldn't find any accommodation. In the afternoon I was already on flat roads and despite achy legs and joints, and my so-called determination, I reached my destination, Oloron Ste Marie. I checked in at a place recommended by the information desk at the town hall. I also got my second stamp at the town hall. While the credencial serves as an ID for the pilgrims when checking in at a Refugio or some other pilgrim accommodations, stamps on it would also reveal the route I have taken.


There was no place to eat full meal in the afternoon. Even restaurants didn't serve meals at this time of the day. A simple cheese sandwich, under special request, and a soda was all I could have. This is irrelevant but there was no Internet café either. I also tried to visit the local church but it was closed and since it was beginning to get dark, I headed back to the hostel and went to bed instead. At around 9pm, however, I felt like I was starving so I went out and looked for a restaurant. I found one that cooked very good food but served terrible tap water much to my disappointment.


Since today was my first long day of cycling, I massaged my feet and legs before going to bed. I felt sore but the massage somehow eased the pain.
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2 comments:

  1. I'll be following in your footsteps ... er ... cycle tracks in a couple of months time: walking from Lourdes to Oloron, south to Somport and on the Aragones route.
    Keep safe, stay warm, watch out for the snow on the high ground.
    Buen camino.

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  2. Wow, have a great journey. The road from Lourdes to Oloron may tend to be lonely but it's not bad. Stay safe.

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