Mio el Camino de Santiago de Compostela - 9

Day 9 Los Arcos --> Sto. Domingo


I left the hostel without seeing anyone at the restaurant. The sun was just about to rise. As I was leaving, I turned my head back and saw the great view of the town. I thought a snap shot wouldn't jeopardize my schedule. As I pedaled away, I also felt that the wind was becoming stronger. Again, it was pushing me back.


The road to Logroño was hilly and a bit tough. Once I entered the city, I stopped at a cafeteria for breakfast—hot breakfast with hot coffee. Then I went to find the church. I found it but I didn't get in. I think it was closed. I didn't have time to get inside anyway.


I proceeded to the information center that was listed in my pilgrim guide. I've circled the block twice but I could not locate it. Bad omen. So instead, I went to the general tourist information center. I asked for directions because the road in my map was leading me to a freeway and I didn't want the cops coming after me again.


So following the instructions given to me, there I went, trying my best not to go into the freeway. In so doing, I noticed that I was headed to the wrong direction. I know I was supposed to go west but I was heading south. I carefully checked my map again and my hunch was right. I turned around and found myself again in this dilemma of not finding the right route. My map seemed outdated. I stopped on the island in the middle of the road and a guy doing some road garden maintenance gave me directions, in Spanish. With the noises from the passing vehicles, I understood that I only had to go straight. What confused me was that the name of the road was freeway coded. I went straight ahead anyway.


After a while I spotted a gas station. I stopped to buy water and wanted to confirm from the cashier if I was on the right track. Unfortunately, there was a little misunderstanding. I was saying that the road seemed to be a freeway where bicycles were not allowed, but the guy thought that I was asking for the direction back to the freeway, in the opposite direction. It took me a while to leave that area because no matter which road I took, I kept getting back to the freeway. I was able to leave Logroño after two hours which should have been like 30min tops. Oh, the omen. I decided to take the freeway, thinking I could just ask a cop for information and assistance should I find one, or if they come after me. Whichever comes first.


It turns out it was the right road. It was being converted into a freeway and it was being extended. And it's the same road stated in my map and bicycles were still allowed. From this time on, whenever I get lost, I'd trust my gut or simply follow route N-120, the asphalted road leading to Santiago de Compostela.


The rest of the road was mostly flat. I reached Santo Domingo de la Calzada in the afternoon when the sun has already set but it's not dark yet. I passed by the church but there was a funeral ceremony going on so I didn't get in. Nearby to the church was a nice looking parador. I thought paradors were accommodation catering the pilgrims. Well, they cater pilgrims, but they were not cheap. I went to the information center to look for a cheap room. I was led to an albergue run by nuns. I checked myself in. The first floor was under renovation but the rooms above were like hotel rooms. Well, rooms for one anyway. More like a fancy dorm room. I thought it looked like my dorm room back when I was in college.


I went out again to have my bicycle checked because it created some noise when I was pedaling that day. I wouldn't be surprised if it needed some chain fixing considering the amount of snow, rain and mud it collected. After a couple of hours I went back to the shop and I was told that the bicycle just needed greasing. But it's shocking that I had to pay more than twice of what I paid for the tire aligning I had in St. Jean Pied de Port. My bad, I should have taken the leftover grease with me. I could have used it later. And I already paid for it anyway.


I went back to my dorm room with a shawarma take out for the night.
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Mio el Camino de Santiago de Compostela - 7

Day 7 Saint Jean Pied de Port -> Pamplona


Happy Easter!


Cloudy day with showers. Showers with snow.


So, as I have decided yesterday, rain or shine I've got to go. I passed by the church before leaving the town. I reached the mountains in a couple of hours. A cycling pilgrim passed me by. I actually this same guy yesterday when he arrived in Saint Jean Pied de Port. But then a second glance confirmed that he was clinging to a slow running car so he wasn't pedaling at all. I was jealous. I had to remind myself that I was on my own pilgrimage.


With snow droplets, the sight around as I went up was beautiful. But after a while I realized it's the Pyrenees mountains as it was now really snowing. To actually cross the snowy mountain was no joke. The road kept going up and the snow kept piling up. I had to walk my bicycle with its icy tires. Sometimes the snowfall was so hard that I could not see the road. I was afraid that I might head to a ravine. I tried to stick in the middle of the road. I switched on my bicycle's LED headlight on a blinking mode so I would be noticed by drivers of oncoming vehicles. Or so I hoped.


I could not walk up at a normal pace because I kept slipping down. My hands were beginning to ache from too much cold. I was wearing cycling gloves but these were not enough to keep my hands from frostbites. All of a sudden I encountered a barking dog. I thought it was the aggressive type so I immediately took out my camera tripod, extended one of the legs, held it like a sword and I posed like a knight ready to fight. But then I noticed that the dog stopped barking and was looking at me like with a big question mark on its face. The dog then continued and kept barking while moving away. I noticed though that it was not going back towards its owner's house, but was pointing me to the snow covered road markings. The dog was trying to show me the way! Not completely convinced, I tried to shoo it away. Instead, the dog kept going farther, showing me the rest of the way. It was as if the dog knows that I could not find the road buried in deep snow. A big help.


After hours and hours of walking alone up the snowy mountains, I finally reached the highest point to my relief. The snow on the road down was cleared off. I rode my bicycle with extra care because I know I could simply slip off course on this icy road. I stopped by at Roncesvalles to get a stamp and rest in a heated room. I even tried to put my frozen gloves on the heater. I spent some time in the church hoping for the snowfall to subside. The snow outside was knee-deep.


When I left the small town, the sky began to clear and the sun to shine but it was still so cold. My now wet gloves started to freeze again from the cold wind and I couldn't feel my hands. I could only hope that I don't use the bicycle breaks to stop because I couldn't move my fingers.


Hours of chilling snow and wind passed by before I finally found a fair weather. I arrived at Pamplona on a sunny afternoon as if the thick snow was only a dream. However, I arrived late in the city that I got no time to stroll around and take some pictures. It was getting dark outside.


I slept in a Refugio. It looked like a hospital but was, way, way well-equipped. Refugios provide the bed but not the beddings. I used my sleeping bag for the first time. Next to my bed is this German guy who wanted to have a conversation with me but he didn't speak English, only German and Russian. I, on the other hand, could only understand English, Filipino, Japanese and maybe some Spanish. He was a cyclist too. But with our limited hand gestures and mutually understood words, the conversation didn't last long. Well, I didn't mind. We don't have the same pace so I was pretty sure we won't meet again.
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Mio el Camino de Santiago de Compostela - 6

Day 6


It's dark outside and it's raining. It's a bit cold. Yesterday was almost like summer. I could see that the mountains were covered with clouds. The landlady insisted that I stay for another day. Before noon, the sky cleared and she showed me the mountains capped with snow. That clearing didn't last long. Soon it was covered again with clouds.


Although it's still raining, I went out and walked around. That walk made me realize that my shoes were not suitable for wet weather. Reluctantly, I bought the cheapest waterproof shoes I could find. But for EU57 a pair, they were not cheap for me at all.


Since it was raining, I spent a lot of time in the church today, thinking about nothing. The locals were busy preparing the church for Easter Sunday services. I remembered my high school days. Being a parish choir member, I was quite active in our local church activities in those days.


I found a local, traditional looking French restaurant. After having a very nice dinner, I went back to the B&B. I decided that no matter what weather tomorrow brings, I would continue my trip. I am 2 days behind my itinerary. I was given a visa with only the exact number of days to complete the Compostela, not another leasure day to spare.
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Mio el Camino de Santiago de Compostela - 5

Day 5

I woke up and remembered it's Good Friday.

I went downstairs to eat breakfast at 8 and found out I was the only one left. All the other pilgrims staying in the B&B have already left to start their walk. The old landlady told me that breakfast is supposed to be at 7. I wondered, she didn't tell me that the day before. Or maybe she did, I just didn't get it. I thought I should have practiced a little French.

I went out after that simple breakfast, toasted French bread with jam and café au lait. I brought my bicycle to a repair shop. I also bought some water and food for tomorrow. I went for lunch. The sunny weather brought me to crave for fish, but paella with shrimps and shellfish was the best that I got. Actually that was more than I craved for. I realized though that I was spending too much on food. My lunch cost me EU18.70.

Most of the shops were closed at this time so I went back to the B&B and took a nap until 3pm. When I woke up, I was thinking of something to do. Looking at my stuff, I trimmed it down to my most basic needs. A few kilos have been a burden, including the cute little bottles filled with spring water from Lourdes. So I was off to the post office to send my extra stuff to a hostel in Santiago de Compostela and I shed a hefty EU47.50 for postage. I headed back to the bicycle shop. My bicycle was fixed for a surprisingly cheap EU13. The sky has gone cloudy but I still rode around to take some pictures. I also went to the citadel, the town’s historical pride, and then stopped by the local church.

I was hoping to witness some Christian tradition to happen in the church for this Good Friday. Unfortunately, there was none. Or maybe I kept missing the right timing. So I got back to the B&B when it got dark and the landlady greeted me with, I assumed, something about the circuit breaker. I did not understand French but she was showing me her washing machine, the switch, the electrical wiring and the heater in my room and she would say something like "bang". I could sense that she was blaming me for something that happened while I was gone. Again I wondered, how could that be my fault when I am gone at the time it happened? Now I'm sure I should have studied French.

I was in bed by 7pm. I was ready for tomorrow's leg.

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Mio el Camino de Santiago de Compostela - 4

Day 4 Oloron Ste Marie -> St. Jean Pied de Port

I learned an important lesson from yesterday-- it's not wise to start cycling in the dark. So I had my breakfast at 7 and left the place just as the sun was about to rise-- at 8am. After riding for about a kilometer, I noticed that the rear wheel of my bicycle was wiggling. I hoped I would get to my destination without breaking my bicycle. So this time, I took the bigger roads, which were mostly flat. The route I chose was longer but I thought it's a safe choice, better than the shorter but mountainous road. It would be safer for my bicycle.

It's a sunny morning but there was coldness in the air. But it's a nice ride. At midpoint of my journey, I stopped in a local town. It's midday so I looked for a place to eat but could not find an open one. I was convinced; it's not in the French tradition to eat lunch at noon. So I ate the leftovers I brought along with me from Lourdes.

Moving on, I enjoyed the long peaceful ride chasing the afternoon sun, until I reached an uphill road with a long gradual ascent. It's still a few kilometers to my destination. It took me a while to decide but I chose to ride my bicycle up. I thought that walking my bicycle would take much more time. When I reached the peak of the hill, there was a guy who seemed to have been watching me climb up. He cheered me up in French. I wasn't sure though if he said that I was almost there or if he said that I would be enjoying the road ahead. Whatever it was, I found out that awaiting me was a long, smooth and effortless ride down. It felt like a reward for that hard uphill climb.

I reached St. Jean Pied de Port at about 4:30pm, the sun still high. I asked for a cheap accommodation at the tourist center. When I showed my credencial, I was instead directed to the pilgrims' information center. The old guy I met in the pilgrims' information center was very helpful. He was surprised to learn that I started all the way from Lourdes and took a long route to reach St Jean Pied de Port. He mentioned that the Refugio, the common cheap accommodation for pilgrims, was already full. After stamping on my credencial, he gave me a shell. This shell meant that the wearer is a pilgrim to Santiago de Compostela.

But the old guy did not leave me without shelter that night. I was referred to a pilgrims' B&B next door. The landlady spoke French only but it's okay because I was given a room with two beds. The room was big enough to accommodate a couple or even more. But this B&B was old. My room, although it's big, was a little uncomfortable. I can see the wooden floor sunken in the middle. I kept sliding down to the center of the room unless I took off my socks and walked barefoot.

While strolling around for food later, I met two ladies--Miriam from Ireland and Meredith from Hungary. They were also at the pilgrims' information center earlier. I thought they were in the same group with all the others who arrived earlier than me in the center. Having recognized each other, we ended up eating together in the same restaurant. It turns out that we were also in the same B&B. They were going to walk the camino.

I decided to spend 2 nights here. I needed a day to have my bicycle fixed and that's a chance to have a rest day as well.

I thought the room was creepy.

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