Mio el Camino de Santiago de Compostela - 9

Day 9 Los Arcos --> Sto. Domingo


I left the hostel without seeing anyone at the restaurant. The sun was just about to rise. As I was leaving, I turned my head back and saw the great view of the town. I thought a snap shot wouldn't jeopardize my schedule. As I pedaled away, I also felt that the wind was becoming stronger. Again, it was pushing me back.


The road to Logroño was hilly and a bit tough. Once I entered the city, I stopped at a cafeteria for breakfast—hot breakfast with hot coffee. Then I went to find the church. I found it but I didn't get in. I think it was closed. I didn't have time to get inside anyway.


I proceeded to the information center that was listed in my pilgrim guide. I've circled the block twice but I could not locate it. Bad omen. So instead, I went to the general tourist information center. I asked for directions because the road in my map was leading me to a freeway and I didn't want the cops coming after me again.


So following the instructions given to me, there I went, trying my best not to go into the freeway. In so doing, I noticed that I was headed to the wrong direction. I know I was supposed to go west but I was heading south. I carefully checked my map again and my hunch was right. I turned around and found myself again in this dilemma of not finding the right route. My map seemed outdated. I stopped on the island in the middle of the road and a guy doing some road garden maintenance gave me directions, in Spanish. With the noises from the passing vehicles, I understood that I only had to go straight. What confused me was that the name of the road was freeway coded. I went straight ahead anyway.


After a while I spotted a gas station. I stopped to buy water and wanted to confirm from the cashier if I was on the right track. Unfortunately, there was a little misunderstanding. I was saying that the road seemed to be a freeway where bicycles were not allowed, but the guy thought that I was asking for the direction back to the freeway, in the opposite direction. It took me a while to leave that area because no matter which road I took, I kept getting back to the freeway. I was able to leave Logroño after two hours which should have been like 30min tops. Oh, the omen. I decided to take the freeway, thinking I could just ask a cop for information and assistance should I find one, or if they come after me. Whichever comes first.


It turns out it was the right road. It was being converted into a freeway and it was being extended. And it's the same road stated in my map and bicycles were still allowed. From this time on, whenever I get lost, I'd trust my gut or simply follow route N-120, the asphalted road leading to Santiago de Compostela.


The rest of the road was mostly flat. I reached Santo Domingo de la Calzada in the afternoon when the sun has already set but it's not dark yet. I passed by the church but there was a funeral ceremony going on so I didn't get in. Nearby to the church was a nice looking parador. I thought paradors were accommodation catering the pilgrims. Well, they cater pilgrims, but they were not cheap. I went to the information center to look for a cheap room. I was led to an albergue run by nuns. I checked myself in. The first floor was under renovation but the rooms above were like hotel rooms. Well, rooms for one anyway. More like a fancy dorm room. I thought it looked like my dorm room back when I was in college.


I went out again to have my bicycle checked because it created some noise when I was pedaling that day. I wouldn't be surprised if it needed some chain fixing considering the amount of snow, rain and mud it collected. After a couple of hours I went back to the shop and I was told that the bicycle just needed greasing. But it's shocking that I had to pay more than twice of what I paid for the tire aligning I had in St. Jean Pied de Port. My bad, I should have taken the leftover grease with me. I could have used it later. And I already paid for it anyway.


I went back to my dorm room with a shawarma take out for the night.
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Mio el Camino de Santiago de Compostela - 8

Day 8 Pamplona --> Los Arcos


Left over snow.


Going out of Pamplona was a great view. The bleakness of a cloudy morning turned into a sunny noon. Just as I remembered that I had to stop by the Ermita de Santa Maria de Eunate, there it was. On my left side. It's like it appeared so sudden while I was pedaling that I almost missed it. I spent a few minutes in the church before continuing on.


I also passed by the beautiful town of Puente la Reina but had no time to fully stop and appreciate. I took a snap shot of the bridge though. Two other cyclists passed me by and I noticed that although they were obviously cycling pilgrims, they only carried a small bag, not bigger than a folded sleeping bag, on their bicycles with them. We greeted each other. They were much faster and trained, so by the time I took a curve, they were already little tiny figures in the horizon.


I also stopped by the Bodegas Irache. The only water fountain along the camino that also served wine for free. I thought I would be able to fill my 500ml empty bottle with red wine. Of course that's wishful thinking. I only got about a glass serving. I took a sip and saved it for the night.


I only took a sip of wine and I inadvertently got on a freeway with big trucks passing endlessly. To make it worse, it also started to rain. So there I was, like a bum on a bicycle, covered with a raincoat that looks like Superman's flowing cape when trucks pass me by. A couple of hours later, just as I was about to take the nearest exit I found, the cops pulled me over. They were kind, and they led me to the right direction. They followed me to make sure that I get off the freeway, or maybe to make sure that I don't get back on the freeway.


In the afternoon, the sky cleared but the wind started to blow hard. Most of the road was uphill so I walked a lot. I decided that to prevent further injury, I should just walk if I come across an uphill road. But with strong winds, I couldn't ride down that fast either. Then the same cyclists I met this morning overtook me again, 5 hours later. They were probably wondering how I managed to get ahead of them. Well, so was I. Maybe, it's the freeway.


I thought this morning that I'd reach Logroño with much more time to spare to wander around. But with the strong winds, I decided to give it a break at 4pm. The sun was still high but the strong winds wouldn't stop. I checked in at a hostel restaurant in Los Arcos, as scheduled anyway.


I took a walk in this old town looking for a place to get a stamp. The information center was closed. I got the stamp at an albergue, another cheap accommodation for the pilgrims. I thought that I could have checked this out before deciding on that hostel restaurant. Anyway, while I was leaving the albergue and crossing a small bridge, I heard a loud bang beside me. Then, appearing in front of me suddenly like magic, was a disoriented duck walking like drunk in the middle of the bridge. I looked down at the river and saw that there were many ducks playing around. Probably this duck attempted to fly away but the strong wind slammed it to the bridge. Poor duck. Well, it only reminded me how strong the wind was that day.


I tried to look for an Internet café albeit unsuccessfully. It's a very small town and the buildings were old. The church was big but it was closed so I didn't get a look inside. I thought of eating a proper dinner. But I know, the local time for supper was too late. I bought some bread and sausages instead.


I washed my muddy stuff before I slept. I rearranged the position of the bed because I didn't want my head to be directly under the blowing heater. I enjoyed the wine I got from Irache.
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