Mio el Camino de Santiago de Compostela -10

Day 10 Sto. Domingo --> Burgos


I took the big road today, route N-120. Although it was a sunny morning with no rain threat, I was still tempted to get on the asphalt. It was peaceful. The serene road going out of Sto. Domingo was one interesting road. My head was actually not into my direction ahead. I kept on glancing sideways.


However, after a couple more of kilometers later, the path turned into a busy road. Many big trucks going to Burgos were taking the same route. I realized big roads do not mean easy roads after all. These trucks kept pushing me off the road. On the way up to the mountains, I had to get a hard grip on the handle because if not, I'd be pushed and plunged down the ravine.


It started to rain and as the road went up, the rain turned into snow. I encountered a road truck a couple of times sprinkling the road with what looked like large grains of salt. I resisted the temptation of tasting it. My expectation was right, it was cold up the mountain. Although the area was not covered in snow, it was still cold. My cycling gloves were not enough to keep my hands from frostbite.


I didn't do much thinking during the trip. No reciting of poems, no singing, and no composing songs or making up of lyrics either. I was busy keeping my balance. I reached Burgos safely though, but my bicycle and I were very dirty from being sprayed down by passing trucks that ran over the large grains of salt. If those were salt grains, that is. I thought it was cloudy the whole time. When I took off my sunglasses, it's a very fair, sunny afternoon. And I saw my sunglasses covered with small particles of dried dust.


I checked in at the first hostel I saw because I wanted to fix myself asap and tour the city. The hostel looked more like a 3-star hotel and so I had to ask first if I could keep the bicycle around. They took care of it. I found out later that they kept my muddy bicycle in the conference room.


I wandered around the city. The cathedral was great, no doubt about it. But it wasn't a solemn place to pray. No need to argue about it. Loud tourists! I also went to buy some food from a delicious looking bread shop. I wanted to try the empanada. The seller explained to me what was inside the delectable bread. I wondered how I understood what was just said in Spanish yet I could only manage to say, "Si, gracias" in return. I also bought a pair of snowboarding gloves. Just in case, I really couldn't stand more frostbites any longer.


Back at the hostel, they leased laptop PC's for a cheap price. I was able to check my email after a long time. I know I shouldn't but somehow I knew that I had to. I simply had nothing to do tonight so I surfed the Internet while eating tuna and tomato empanada.
.

Mio el Camino de Santiago de Compostela - 9

Day 9 Los Arcos --> Sto. Domingo


I left the hostel without seeing anyone at the restaurant. The sun was just about to rise. As I was leaving, I turned my head back and saw the great view of the town. I thought a snap shot wouldn't jeopardize my schedule. As I pedaled away, I also felt that the wind was becoming stronger. Again, it was pushing me back.


The road to Logroño was hilly and a bit tough. Once I entered the city, I stopped at a cafeteria for breakfast—hot breakfast with hot coffee. Then I went to find the church. I found it but I didn't get in. I think it was closed. I didn't have time to get inside anyway.


I proceeded to the information center that was listed in my pilgrim guide. I've circled the block twice but I could not locate it. Bad omen. So instead, I went to the general tourist information center. I asked for directions because the road in my map was leading me to a freeway and I didn't want the cops coming after me again.


So following the instructions given to me, there I went, trying my best not to go into the freeway. In so doing, I noticed that I was headed to the wrong direction. I know I was supposed to go west but I was heading south. I carefully checked my map again and my hunch was right. I turned around and found myself again in this dilemma of not finding the right route. My map seemed outdated. I stopped on the island in the middle of the road and a guy doing some road garden maintenance gave me directions, in Spanish. With the noises from the passing vehicles, I understood that I only had to go straight. What confused me was that the name of the road was freeway coded. I went straight ahead anyway.


After a while I spotted a gas station. I stopped to buy water and wanted to confirm from the cashier if I was on the right track. Unfortunately, there was a little misunderstanding. I was saying that the road seemed to be a freeway where bicycles were not allowed, but the guy thought that I was asking for the direction back to the freeway, in the opposite direction. It took me a while to leave that area because no matter which road I took, I kept getting back to the freeway. I was able to leave Logroño after two hours which should have been like 30min tops. Oh, the omen. I decided to take the freeway, thinking I could just ask a cop for information and assistance should I find one, or if they come after me. Whichever comes first.


It turns out it was the right road. It was being converted into a freeway and it was being extended. And it's the same road stated in my map and bicycles were still allowed. From this time on, whenever I get lost, I'd trust my gut or simply follow route N-120, the asphalted road leading to Santiago de Compostela.


The rest of the road was mostly flat. I reached Santo Domingo de la Calzada in the afternoon when the sun has already set but it's not dark yet. I passed by the church but there was a funeral ceremony going on so I didn't get in. Nearby to the church was a nice looking parador. I thought paradors were accommodation catering the pilgrims. Well, they cater pilgrims, but they were not cheap. I went to the information center to look for a cheap room. I was led to an albergue run by nuns. I checked myself in. The first floor was under renovation but the rooms above were like hotel rooms. Well, rooms for one anyway. More like a fancy dorm room. I thought it looked like my dorm room back when I was in college.


I went out again to have my bicycle checked because it created some noise when I was pedaling that day. I wouldn't be surprised if it needed some chain fixing considering the amount of snow, rain and mud it collected. After a couple of hours I went back to the shop and I was told that the bicycle just needed greasing. But it's shocking that I had to pay more than twice of what I paid for the tire aligning I had in St. Jean Pied de Port. My bad, I should have taken the leftover grease with me. I could have used it later. And I already paid for it anyway.


I went back to my dorm room with a shawarma take out for the night.
.