Mio el Camino de Santiago de Compostela -12

Day 12 Carrion --> Leon


I started off early today, at 7:45. Yes, that was early because it was still a little dim outside. It's a bit foggy on my way out of the town but I thought the weather was perfect. About 12 kilometers away from Carrion, I met a farmer who seemed to be having a problem with his truck. He asked me how far the nearest town was, at least that's how I understood him. But I couldn't help much. I could only say that I was 12 kilometers away from Carrion at that point. A car appeared nearby and the man ran after it, trying to catch the driver's attention. I could have helped go after the car but it was going uphill on a road in a private property. Based on my expertise, that's one of those things I could not do-- pedal up a rocky hill.


So I peacefully went on my way. An hour later, it's the strong wind again. This will be the longest segment of my journey, 110 kilometers. With the strong wind, I was worried if I'd reach Leon on time. By that I mean it's not dark yet. So I decided to take the asphalt road to be sure. I kept pedaling the whole day. It was a fair, sunny day but really windy. It was already past 4 in the afternoon and I was still far from reaching Leon. My perseverance was again tested. I thought I would give in and cut my trip.


From the rocky walk path to the peaceful asphalt road to the busy highway, after 10 hours of exhausting cycling, I finally arrived in Leon just as it was about to get dark. The hotel I chose was great. It was not a five star hotel but its historical ambiance made me think it was classy. It was also a few steps to the cathedral. The problem was, my ankle was hurting so bad that I couldn't walk up. It's a little embarrassing to use the what seemed to be like a manually operated elevator because my room was only above the lobby. Putting on my okay face and smile, I took the stairs so slowly that I imagined my self getting old and having knee arthritis. Maybe that's how it would feel.

I took my time, making one small step up at a time until I reached the door of my assigned room. When I pushed the door open, I was instantly satisfied. My room was great. The window was actually above the main entrance. After changing into a more decent garb, I bought pain reliever tablets from a nearby pharmacy and with my novice medical assessment ability, I decided to take a rest day in this city.


Even with a hurt ankle, I couldn't resist to venture the city. I took a walk around the cathedral that night, ate at a McDonald's and bought some food from the supermarket. It was almost midnight when I got back to the hotel. But the neighborhood was still so alive. Anyway, I massaged my legs and feet before going to bed.


The view from my room was good but the noise was not. Some young people were having fun just outside my hotel room. Maybe I also wanted to savor the city's energy because I had my windows open overnight, letting those vibrant voices fill my room.


I fell asleep, smiling.
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Mio el Camino de Santiago de Compostela -11

Day 11 Burgos --> Carrion


I wasn't feeling guilty for taking the big road yesterday because it wasn't an easy road. So I took the same N-120 route today. To my amazement, unlike yesterday, there were almost no vehicles passing through. It was quiet and I thought it was great.


But of course, it wasn't meant to be easy. After a couple of hours, the wind was no longer cooperative. It kept pushing me back, or sideways, throughout the day. After a climb up, I had to pedal down against the blowing wind. That's all I did for the rest of the day-- battle against the wind.


I reached Carrion as scheduled but as I was about to cross a very wide road curve to exit N-120 and get into the town, the bicycle chain got tangled up. I had to lift up my bicycle and pull over to the shoulder. It took me a while to rearrange it. Maybe I was too excited to get into town that I couldn't concentrate on doing the job right.


The albergue in this town was closed at this time of the year so before it got dark, I checked in at a hostel which happened to be a few steps away from the albergue I just checked. My left ankle started to ache. But I still walked around to find a stamp for my credencial. The only place I knew where to get the stamp was the albergue which was closed.


It was already dark and I couldn't find another place to get a stamp. I decided to have dinner at a local bar. They were offering peregrino dinner. A full dinner course from appetizer to dessert for EU8, available to the pilgrims. After eating dinner, I asked around if there's a place to get a stamp at this hour. It turned out the bar provided stamps. Lucky.


I had a room with a great view facing the church. But even then I slept as early as I could. I was tired.
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Mio el Camino de Santiago de Compostela -10

Day 10 Sto. Domingo --> Burgos


I took the big road today, route N-120. Although it was a sunny morning with no rain threat, I was still tempted to get on the asphalt. It was peaceful. The serene road going out of Sto. Domingo was one interesting road. My head was actually not into my direction ahead. I kept on glancing sideways.


However, after a couple more of kilometers later, the path turned into a busy road. Many big trucks going to Burgos were taking the same route. I realized big roads do not mean easy roads after all. These trucks kept pushing me off the road. On the way up to the mountains, I had to get a hard grip on the handle because if not, I'd be pushed and plunged down the ravine.


It started to rain and as the road went up, the rain turned into snow. I encountered a road truck a couple of times sprinkling the road with what looked like large grains of salt. I resisted the temptation of tasting it. My expectation was right, it was cold up the mountain. Although the area was not covered in snow, it was still cold. My cycling gloves were not enough to keep my hands from frostbite.


I didn't do much thinking during the trip. No reciting of poems, no singing, and no composing songs or making up of lyrics either. I was busy keeping my balance. I reached Burgos safely though, but my bicycle and I were very dirty from being sprayed down by passing trucks that ran over the large grains of salt. If those were salt grains, that is. I thought it was cloudy the whole time. When I took off my sunglasses, it's a very fair, sunny afternoon. And I saw my sunglasses covered with small particles of dried dust.


I checked in at the first hostel I saw because I wanted to fix myself asap and tour the city. The hostel looked more like a 3-star hotel and so I had to ask first if I could keep the bicycle around. They took care of it. I found out later that they kept my muddy bicycle in the conference room.


I wandered around the city. The cathedral was great, no doubt about it. But it wasn't a solemn place to pray. No need to argue about it. Loud tourists! I also went to buy some food from a delicious looking bread shop. I wanted to try the empanada. The seller explained to me what was inside the delectable bread. I wondered how I understood what was just said in Spanish yet I could only manage to say, "Si, gracias" in return. I also bought a pair of snowboarding gloves. Just in case, I really couldn't stand more frostbites any longer.


Back at the hostel, they leased laptop PC's for a cheap price. I was able to check my email after a long time. I know I shouldn't but somehow I knew that I had to. I simply had nothing to do tonight so I surfed the Internet while eating tuna and tomato empanada.
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Mio el Camino de Santiago de Compostela - 9

Day 9 Los Arcos --> Sto. Domingo


I left the hostel without seeing anyone at the restaurant. The sun was just about to rise. As I was leaving, I turned my head back and saw the great view of the town. I thought a snap shot wouldn't jeopardize my schedule. As I pedaled away, I also felt that the wind was becoming stronger. Again, it was pushing me back.


The road to Logroño was hilly and a bit tough. Once I entered the city, I stopped at a cafeteria for breakfast—hot breakfast with hot coffee. Then I went to find the church. I found it but I didn't get in. I think it was closed. I didn't have time to get inside anyway.


I proceeded to the information center that was listed in my pilgrim guide. I've circled the block twice but I could not locate it. Bad omen. So instead, I went to the general tourist information center. I asked for directions because the road in my map was leading me to a freeway and I didn't want the cops coming after me again.


So following the instructions given to me, there I went, trying my best not to go into the freeway. In so doing, I noticed that I was headed to the wrong direction. I know I was supposed to go west but I was heading south. I carefully checked my map again and my hunch was right. I turned around and found myself again in this dilemma of not finding the right route. My map seemed outdated. I stopped on the island in the middle of the road and a guy doing some road garden maintenance gave me directions, in Spanish. With the noises from the passing vehicles, I understood that I only had to go straight. What confused me was that the name of the road was freeway coded. I went straight ahead anyway.


After a while I spotted a gas station. I stopped to buy water and wanted to confirm from the cashier if I was on the right track. Unfortunately, there was a little misunderstanding. I was saying that the road seemed to be a freeway where bicycles were not allowed, but the guy thought that I was asking for the direction back to the freeway, in the opposite direction. It took me a while to leave that area because no matter which road I took, I kept getting back to the freeway. I was able to leave Logroño after two hours which should have been like 30min tops. Oh, the omen. I decided to take the freeway, thinking I could just ask a cop for information and assistance should I find one, or if they come after me. Whichever comes first.


It turns out it was the right road. It was being converted into a freeway and it was being extended. And it's the same road stated in my map and bicycles were still allowed. From this time on, whenever I get lost, I'd trust my gut or simply follow route N-120, the asphalted road leading to Santiago de Compostela.


The rest of the road was mostly flat. I reached Santo Domingo de la Calzada in the afternoon when the sun has already set but it's not dark yet. I passed by the church but there was a funeral ceremony going on so I didn't get in. Nearby to the church was a nice looking parador. I thought paradors were accommodation catering the pilgrims. Well, they cater pilgrims, but they were not cheap. I went to the information center to look for a cheap room. I was led to an albergue run by nuns. I checked myself in. The first floor was under renovation but the rooms above were like hotel rooms. Well, rooms for one anyway. More like a fancy dorm room. I thought it looked like my dorm room back when I was in college.


I went out again to have my bicycle checked because it created some noise when I was pedaling that day. I wouldn't be surprised if it needed some chain fixing considering the amount of snow, rain and mud it collected. After a couple of hours I went back to the shop and I was told that the bicycle just needed greasing. But it's shocking that I had to pay more than twice of what I paid for the tire aligning I had in St. Jean Pied de Port. My bad, I should have taken the leftover grease with me. I could have used it later. And I already paid for it anyway.


I went back to my dorm room with a shawarma take out for the night.
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