Mio el Camino de Santiago de Compostela -16

Day 16 Villafranca --> Sarria


Great weather today.


But then I remembered, it's April Fool's day. I thought I shouldn't be fooled by the fine looking weather.


Daylight savings time was being implemented so I couldn't leave until 8am because it was still dark. I had a long mountainous climb up until past noon. I was cycling until the early afternoon but it was still rather cold.


But after having a break and eating my lunch, the temperature rose. It became so hot that my inner shirt was soaked with sweat. Up there in the open road I changed to a simple T-shirt and it felt so refreshing. The view from O'Cebreiro at an altitude of more than a thousand meters was magnificent.


After a few more minutes, my descent began and it was a long way down. I wasn't sure if it was the good weather but the views were so stunning that I thought I was merely floating. Even with the wind blowing in my ears, I could still hear the birds singing. The scene that I could hardly describe in words are still so vivid in my mind. It's like an unforgettable dream. Only that it was real.


So smooth the ride that I arrived earlier than scheduled in Sarria. I was happy and contented. Thankful that I did not encounter any difficulty in today's leg. I searched for an albergue with a private room, or a room with 2 person maximum occupancy but there was none or was already occupied. So I checked myself in a business hotel.


Since the sun was still high, I walked around and did some food shopping to eat on the road for the next days ahead. While browsing for food, my eyes fixated on the yummy looking deep fried pork cracklings. I bought 2 packs, together with the smallest bottle of vinegar available, which was actually a big 500ml, to dip in the fried bits. I knew I was up for a food fiesta tonight.


When I got back to the hotel, I turned the TV on and watched while eating the fried pork bits. I looked at what I bought and found out that I forgot to buy some drinks. Good thing they had coca-cola in the hotel fridge. The yummy pork cracklings and the soda I nursed with it immediately made me feel full and sleepy.


Then around midnight, I felt like throwing up. Without opening my eyes, I tried to raise my pillows thinking that maybe I had eaten too much. But an hour later, I felt really sick and when I went to the bathroom I threw up. A lot.


Relieved and still sleepy, I went back to bed. A few minutes passed, however, I felt sick again. I got to the bathroom and threw up again. And again. And again. I was throwing up all night.


I didn't get away with April Fool's after all.
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Mio el Camino de Santiago de Compostela -14

Day 14 Leon --> Astorga

The shortest segment of my travel.

Early along the way, I stopped at a church in La Virgen del Camino which was said to be a miraculous site. The church was unique and probably the most modern church I saw in my entire pilgrimage. I got inside and spent a few minutes. After getting a stamp on my credencial at the souvenir shop, I went on.

But, with the strong wind, it took me longer to reach Astorga than I had planned. So I took time, I was not in a hurry. Besides, my left ankle has not fully recovered yet. I thought I met a lot of walking pilgrims today. Maybe because my pace was not that faster than walking. If my ankle was not hurt, maybe I tried walking my route today.

I arrived in Astorga around noontime. It was a small but beautiful town with historic buildings. Even the town hall looked like an old Gothic cathedral. After checking in my stuff at the first albergue I saw, I was immediately back on my bicycle and took a general view of the town before eating my lunch.

I went to the cathedral after my late lunch but it's already closed. I thought I still have about an hour before the closing time so I checked with the person at the ticket office but he confirmed that it was indeed closed. I looked my watch and thought that this region must be 1-hour advance than eastern Spain.

So anyway, I walked around the town, taking pictures here and there, and then stumbled on a little church. I went in and took a picture of the altar. On my way out, I saw that the back of the church was a wall of bars. Behind the bars were praying nuns. I realized it was a church run by those nuns. I was probably blocking them pray while I stood taking pictures in the middle of the isle. When I exited the little but beautiful church, I made sure I did not show my face to the nuns.

It was getting late and a little cold although the sun still has a few more minutes to set. I went back to the albergue and spent the rest of my day there. The albergue was on top of the hill and the view from my room was great. While enjoying the view, I immersed myself to the rays of the setting sun coming in through the window.

I took a shower in the communal room before retiring to bed.

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Mio el Camino de Santiago de Compostela -11

Day 11 Burgos --> Carrion


I wasn't feeling guilty for taking the big road yesterday because it wasn't an easy road. So I took the same N-120 route today. To my amazement, unlike yesterday, there were almost no vehicles passing through. It was quiet and I thought it was great.


But of course, it wasn't meant to be easy. After a couple of hours, the wind was no longer cooperative. It kept pushing me back, or sideways, throughout the day. After a climb up, I had to pedal down against the blowing wind. That's all I did for the rest of the day-- battle against the wind.


I reached Carrion as scheduled but as I was about to cross a very wide road curve to exit N-120 and get into the town, the bicycle chain got tangled up. I had to lift up my bicycle and pull over to the shoulder. It took me a while to rearrange it. Maybe I was too excited to get into town that I couldn't concentrate on doing the job right.


The albergue in this town was closed at this time of the year so before it got dark, I checked in at a hostel which happened to be a few steps away from the albergue I just checked. My left ankle started to ache. But I still walked around to find a stamp for my credencial. The only place I knew where to get the stamp was the albergue which was closed.


It was already dark and I couldn't find another place to get a stamp. I decided to have dinner at a local bar. They were offering peregrino dinner. A full dinner course from appetizer to dessert for EU8, available to the pilgrims. After eating dinner, I asked around if there's a place to get a stamp at this hour. It turned out the bar provided stamps. Lucky.


I had a room with a great view facing the church. But even then I slept as early as I could. I was tired.
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Mio el Camino de Santiago de Compostela - 9

Day 9 Los Arcos --> Sto. Domingo


I left the hostel without seeing anyone at the restaurant. The sun was just about to rise. As I was leaving, I turned my head back and saw the great view of the town. I thought a snap shot wouldn't jeopardize my schedule. As I pedaled away, I also felt that the wind was becoming stronger. Again, it was pushing me back.


The road to Logroño was hilly and a bit tough. Once I entered the city, I stopped at a cafeteria for breakfast—hot breakfast with hot coffee. Then I went to find the church. I found it but I didn't get in. I think it was closed. I didn't have time to get inside anyway.


I proceeded to the information center that was listed in my pilgrim guide. I've circled the block twice but I could not locate it. Bad omen. So instead, I went to the general tourist information center. I asked for directions because the road in my map was leading me to a freeway and I didn't want the cops coming after me again.


So following the instructions given to me, there I went, trying my best not to go into the freeway. In so doing, I noticed that I was headed to the wrong direction. I know I was supposed to go west but I was heading south. I carefully checked my map again and my hunch was right. I turned around and found myself again in this dilemma of not finding the right route. My map seemed outdated. I stopped on the island in the middle of the road and a guy doing some road garden maintenance gave me directions, in Spanish. With the noises from the passing vehicles, I understood that I only had to go straight. What confused me was that the name of the road was freeway coded. I went straight ahead anyway.


After a while I spotted a gas station. I stopped to buy water and wanted to confirm from the cashier if I was on the right track. Unfortunately, there was a little misunderstanding. I was saying that the road seemed to be a freeway where bicycles were not allowed, but the guy thought that I was asking for the direction back to the freeway, in the opposite direction. It took me a while to leave that area because no matter which road I took, I kept getting back to the freeway. I was able to leave Logroño after two hours which should have been like 30min tops. Oh, the omen. I decided to take the freeway, thinking I could just ask a cop for information and assistance should I find one, or if they come after me. Whichever comes first.


It turns out it was the right road. It was being converted into a freeway and it was being extended. And it's the same road stated in my map and bicycles were still allowed. From this time on, whenever I get lost, I'd trust my gut or simply follow route N-120, the asphalted road leading to Santiago de Compostela.


The rest of the road was mostly flat. I reached Santo Domingo de la Calzada in the afternoon when the sun has already set but it's not dark yet. I passed by the church but there was a funeral ceremony going on so I didn't get in. Nearby to the church was a nice looking parador. I thought paradors were accommodation catering the pilgrims. Well, they cater pilgrims, but they were not cheap. I went to the information center to look for a cheap room. I was led to an albergue run by nuns. I checked myself in. The first floor was under renovation but the rooms above were like hotel rooms. Well, rooms for one anyway. More like a fancy dorm room. I thought it looked like my dorm room back when I was in college.


I went out again to have my bicycle checked because it created some noise when I was pedaling that day. I wouldn't be surprised if it needed some chain fixing considering the amount of snow, rain and mud it collected. After a couple of hours I went back to the shop and I was told that the bicycle just needed greasing. But it's shocking that I had to pay more than twice of what I paid for the tire aligning I had in St. Jean Pied de Port. My bad, I should have taken the leftover grease with me. I could have used it later. And I already paid for it anyway.


I went back to my dorm room with a shawarma take out for the night.
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Mio el Camino de Santiago de Compostela - 8

Day 8 Pamplona --> Los Arcos


Left over snow.


Going out of Pamplona was a great view. The bleakness of a cloudy morning turned into a sunny noon. Just as I remembered that I had to stop by the Ermita de Santa Maria de Eunate, there it was. On my left side. It's like it appeared so sudden while I was pedaling that I almost missed it. I spent a few minutes in the church before continuing on.


I also passed by the beautiful town of Puente la Reina but had no time to fully stop and appreciate. I took a snap shot of the bridge though. Two other cyclists passed me by and I noticed that although they were obviously cycling pilgrims, they only carried a small bag, not bigger than a folded sleeping bag, on their bicycles with them. We greeted each other. They were much faster and trained, so by the time I took a curve, they were already little tiny figures in the horizon.


I also stopped by the Bodegas Irache. The only water fountain along the camino that also served wine for free. I thought I would be able to fill my 500ml empty bottle with red wine. Of course that's wishful thinking. I only got about a glass serving. I took a sip and saved it for the night.


I only took a sip of wine and I inadvertently got on a freeway with big trucks passing endlessly. To make it worse, it also started to rain. So there I was, like a bum on a bicycle, covered with a raincoat that looks like Superman's flowing cape when trucks pass me by. A couple of hours later, just as I was about to take the nearest exit I found, the cops pulled me over. They were kind, and they led me to the right direction. They followed me to make sure that I get off the freeway, or maybe to make sure that I don't get back on the freeway.


In the afternoon, the sky cleared but the wind started to blow hard. Most of the road was uphill so I walked a lot. I decided that to prevent further injury, I should just walk if I come across an uphill road. But with strong winds, I couldn't ride down that fast either. Then the same cyclists I met this morning overtook me again, 5 hours later. They were probably wondering how I managed to get ahead of them. Well, so was I. Maybe, it's the freeway.


I thought this morning that I'd reach Logroño with much more time to spare to wander around. But with the strong winds, I decided to give it a break at 4pm. The sun was still high but the strong winds wouldn't stop. I checked in at a hostel restaurant in Los Arcos, as scheduled anyway.


I took a walk in this old town looking for a place to get a stamp. The information center was closed. I got the stamp at an albergue, another cheap accommodation for the pilgrims. I thought that I could have checked this out before deciding on that hostel restaurant. Anyway, while I was leaving the albergue and crossing a small bridge, I heard a loud bang beside me. Then, appearing in front of me suddenly like magic, was a disoriented duck walking like drunk in the middle of the bridge. I looked down at the river and saw that there were many ducks playing around. Probably this duck attempted to fly away but the strong wind slammed it to the bridge. Poor duck. Well, it only reminded me how strong the wind was that day.


I tried to look for an Internet café albeit unsuccessfully. It's a very small town and the buildings were old. The church was big but it was closed so I didn't get a look inside. I thought of eating a proper dinner. But I know, the local time for supper was too late. I bought some bread and sausages instead.


I washed my muddy stuff before I slept. I rearranged the position of the bed because I didn't want my head to be directly under the blowing heater. I enjoyed the wine I got from Irache.
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